... ON THE FLY
Notes & Thoughts on Food and Wine from Ron Alonzo aka Don Merlot[1]
March 23, 2021
When would be the best moment to be a fly on the wall for me? I thought about it and thought about it and it had to be a story I read when I started my wine journey. Had I been given the choice it would have been when deciding what wine was best between Bordeaux and Burgundy during the Ancien régime, Yes, were I there, I would have wanted to be included in that exchange, and if I were included then I would have been invited to the next rendezvous of the connoisseurs to join at chez madame’s to savor her next wine picks - the best French reds because no conclusion could be reached that evening and another gathering for tasting those reds was to be scheduled. I thought that was a great story. I think that in most classic wine circles up until the 1970s that discussion was the paramount discussion, and there are several more claimants and varietals offerings today.
I am sure some great oenologist has died concluding what red wine is the best, but overall to me there is no winner, no superior one wine that takes all the medals, so, is this a discussion between these Frenchmen since the 18th Century and continues today? But still not settled, because other cultures and interlopers have butted in? Or other varietals want to be included? In the post WW II culture local tastes feel left out; regional differences vary; Gastronomy is regional and varies too. The senses like umami have been added to the 5 senses, and wine is not just European Culture but global that includes the old classical World and the New World?
I remember this story as I heard from friends and read in wine stories and tales; colleagues and oenologists from all over my French and European wine travels refer to this story. “Which nation’s vineyard produces the finest red wine?
The story goes that – “The question is which is the winner? – The Classic Bordeaux or the grand Vin de Bourgogne? It would be impossible to decide.” One can only decide with the jurist of the ancien régime who when asked by a Marquise at supper one evening which he preferred, answered , “Madame , in this sort of trial I get so much pleasure examining the evidence that I postpone giving my verdict from week to week.[2]” Oh, yes, I wish I could have been there.
So mes amis the discussion continues. Since the 1970s the Wine world has crossed paths with many wine vineyards, and award-winning wines, solicited and demanded the best be brought forward. A plethora of literature has been written and published and sommeliers have perfected the oenological research, yet a unanimous conclusion has not been reached. No winners superseding the original Bordeaux or Burgundian rivals and their goût.
To me early in my wine journey I found P. Morton Shand’s quotation from a Burgundian Vigneron: “on Croit avaler le bon Dieu en culottes de velours” –"one seems to have swallowed the good Lord himself wearing velvet pants.[3]” It happened to me one evening while having dinner – a roast beef matched with a Grands Exchezeaux – that velvety experience going down my pallet: I hence developed a bent for French Burgundy – the pinot noir of the Cote d’Or. But I was young and my mentors who were avid Bordeaux aficionados later introduced me to Médoc’s, St, Emilion’s and Pomerol’s. My business Travel to France educated me too and but I soon found out that these were not table wines and were special wines of the connoisseur and of great value wines, so I read about them but did not find them in ordinary restaurants or on bistro menus.
My Bordeaux tastes tended to go to St. Emilion and Pomerol. I found that was because the Merlot grape was used and aged quicker than the Cabernet Sauvignon which was heavier in tannin. “Ready to drink Medoc” were aged and ready after 12 years. So, my likes in Bordeaux were – Pomerol, and in Burgundy I was attracted to Morey St. Denis that were cheaper than Gevrey- Chambertin. For me I was lucky to be introduced to two of the greatest Reds of each through Wine retailer in Chicago and New York and my wine groups (clubs): La Tâche – Burgundy and Chateau Lafite Rothchild – Bordeaux considered by the wine connoisseurs the top wines in their category. Of course, they were fabulous, and I had them with food and at a restaurant or at someone’s house and not at a tasting to compare one against the other. I was totally untrained to determine to say which was best. Nor did I look at each from that perspective. Just to know that I had been there was fortunate for me because of my French wine connections and New York connections that I was able to taste many of the top Bordeaux’s and Burgundy’s.
So, my early learning curve was never having to decide which red wine was better. Best for me and I kept an open mind for the next tasting. Eventually I continued to taste wines in other country visits that opened my vistas to other red wines and vineyards. Even within France lurking Southeast of Burgundy are the vineyards of the Rhone valley and the varietals are different as is the gastronomy of France and I encountered a renaissance with chef des Cuisines when they revitalized French Food.
I learned that the classical world was the Old World (Europe) and the New World was post Christopher Columbus (and all Western Europe) discovery so that included Americas, Africa & Oceania. My initial business assignments in addition to France took me to Italy, Spain which have deep wine cultures. In the last 20 years there are Italian red wines that would like to Challenge the two French wines. There are Spanish red Wines that would like to Challenge the French wines. There are American red wines that would want to challenge the French wines.
The Modus operendi in Burgundy is perfecting the Pinot Noir in the Cote d’Or to create the perfect red wine. In Bordeaux, the approach is to blend varietals to achieve the perfect red wine. Both Bordeaux and Burgundy classified their premier wines. The prime category of great wine of Bordeaux in Medoc uses Cabernet Sauvignon – except in Chateau Petrus in Pomerol which uses Merlot.
The varietals that have developed are regional and national.
· Syrah & Grenache – The Rhone France, California, Shiraz (Australia)
· Nebbiolo – Italy
· Sangiovese - Italy
· Carmenére – Chile – Originally French (Confused with the Merlot)
· Malbec – Argentina – originally French
· Tannat – Uruguay – Originally French
· Primitivo – Known in CA as the Zinfandel . Diagnosed it origin in the Italian and Croatian Adriatic
So, what are these red wines that want to be included in the top red wine selection over the last 50 years? This is not my selection, but wines I have been introduced by conocedores, Conoscenti, connoisseurs that are the best red wines that match the king of wines for me are:
· Vega Sicilia, Ribero del Duero, blend Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon- Castilla y Leon, Spain
· Penfold’s Cabernet Sauvignon - Grange - Adelaide, Australia
· CVNE- Imperial Gran Réserva Compania Vinicola del Norte de España – Tempranillo - Rioja, Spain
· Casa Lapostolle Limited, Release Clos Apalta, Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua, Chile
· Brunello Di Montalcino - DOCG - Sangiovese - Tuscany Italy, Biondi-Santi.
This is what I encountered as I traveled and went on my “Marco Polo Travels” and learned about red wine in many wine growing countries and picked up the nom de plume Don Merlot, but as I saw and read there is no court of appeal of what the established best red wines is. The standard is already set. The Bordeaux standard is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (or Merlot) and other Bordeaux varietals and in Burgundy the Cote d’Or has the Pinot Noir that is non blended and its Climate Geographically exclusive: These rules were set and have become irrevocable. It was set in the Ancien Regime.
So, if the Marquise invites the Judge again and hopefully includes me, I will be prepared to savor the best of Bordeaux and Burgundy and try to conclude which is the best, or postpone it until the next tasting, n’est pas?
During the COVID Pandemic and lockdown I found new books which I really enjoyed: The GOODE GUIDE TO WINE[4] by Jamie Goode (2020). [5]Goode explains wine in contemporary terms of his wine voyage and where he sees ways to complete the reader’s wine expectations. It was extremely helpful to me.
The FIRESIDE BOOK of WINE[6] by Alexis Bespaloff (1977) a gift from a friend who also is smitten by wine and focuses in French and Italian wines. This book was new to me and I missed it in my oenology search as I was traveling for business and just never came across this book. After reading a few pages I was sorry it took so long to become acquainted. My first wine mentor and I had gone in different directions by the time this book was published, but it makes a lot of sense to me and feel quite comfortable that my mentors and voyages into wine were fruitful.
My first wine tour book was A WINE TOUR OF FRANCE by Fredrick S. Wildman, Jr. [7] & was my first guide to my French wine journey after I started to sell ice makers in Europe with our distributor PERNOD EQUIPEMENT, S.A. This was a magical time for me because when I was alone and wanted insights on wine or places to taste wine, eat and stay this book was my best ally. When I could choose a wine or visit a restaurant I tried to see if it were in this book. I love history so blending my education and my new vista were a great melding.
So, the COVID social lockdown lead to getting me up to update myself with wines and food. I left the house when I could to pick up wine that made it to the top in 2020 and in a sense replaced all the wines that I grew up appreciating; I remembered what my French mentors told me about the great wines of Bordeaux and France. Look up the vineyard maps and see what the neighbor (s) is/are doing, and more than likely or often, you will find wines of equal or similar character and much cheaper. It is so hard to find any one store that carries the exact honored wines, especially in this unsafe environment. My search had started with white wines – my process is instead of comparing several glasses of wine to have the wine with food because for me that is usually how I pick my selections and when I traveled that is how I was exposed to the wine. After reading Goode’s book I added to my template what wine characteristics that please me. I made my personal template of new wines I liked.
The new wines offerings I sought for this issue & found were : White - Gruner Veltliner (Austria), Albariño (Spain), Brut Blanc de Blanc Cremant (Alsace, France) Chardonnay (CA USA); and the reds were Malbec (Argentina), Pinot Noir (Oregon, USA), Tempranillo (Spain), Carmenère (Chile), Beaujolais (France), Jerez/Sherry (Spain). These wines were chosen on availability on the date I visited the store.
The match the wine & the food to make a menu depends on food preferences and then to match the wine offerings. My Hugh Johnson Pocket Wine Book 2020[8] offers a Food & Wine section to offer suggestions. The meals and wines to match were -
Hanger steak, skirt steaks:
There has been an official rule that Red wine goes with Red meat, so I reviewed what we prepare in 2020 ‘21 compared to what I learned. Except for celebrations we do not have beef steaks that much anymore, however in the last few years in my career I traveled to Argentina and Uruguay where grass fed beef are bred and local Red wine became de Regur. Skirt Steak was prepared the Argentine parrilla type –& we prepared the hanger steak the French Bistro way –Cote de Bouef et Pommes Frites with a dab of Dijon mustard; the red wines were tasted with both cuts of meat. The red wines: Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, Malbec, Carmenère, & Tempranillo were served and there was a separate date for the dinners, but the wines were served for both. For me, the tasting was good because I could perceive the lighter (Tannin) wines going with the Entrecote – Pinot Noir & Beaujolais; and the Tempranillo, Carmenère, and Malbec fit well with the Hanger steak that was open grilled and there were no side dishes. A French baguette was available. The thought occurred to me that there should be a follow up serving Australian reds, New Zealand Pinot Noir, and an Italian red. Since it was Covid closure we only had one guest, a neighbor.
Shrimp, Scallops,
Early in my travels I was introduced to” Gambas al ajillo” which is a divine dish at a Tapas venture, and also found as a first plate on the menu at a fish restaurant and in my case it was in Barcelona when I was offered angulas al ajillo, little baby eels cooked in olive oil, garlic slices, which became a favorite until one year the fishing industry lost the crop and limited the availability. The rumor was that the Japanese fleet had absconded with the mother lode. The Atlantic side of Spain has the Galician cooking and there are great wines that have climbed to the top there. To one new well-liked find was the Albariño – to me this wine competed with my favorite white wine the Sancerre from the Loire valley. A lesson here was that everyone has his own perceptions and tastes & develop their preferences.
Scallops became a favorite as I traveled through France and Spain. I also discovered them in Halifax, Canada absolutely and incredible savor. It was hard for me to decide what I liked the most in Halifax, the lobster, or the scallops. So the menu for tasting was Garlic Shrimp and grilled scallops wrapped in bacon & an aioli – with the white wines - - Gruner Veltliner (Austria), Albariño (Spain), Brut Blanc de Blanc Crémant (Alsace, & France), Chardonnay (CA USA and the Sherry offerings. The wines matched well, and it comes back to individual preferences.
Scottish smoked salmon:
The recommendation for this was a Fino or Manzanilla sherry; My favorite sherries I found were La INA – Originally developed by Domeq, La Ina Manzanilla ((Sanlucar), Tio Pepe(Gonzalez Byass) - (Jerez de la Frontera, Spain) and I found a bottle of Alsace William Brut Blanc de Blanc Crémant d’Alsace The first time I had smoked salmon (thin carved on a dish with accompaniments – like prepared for caviar – and my first time was a presentation in London and it was served with Champagne. Later when I worked with my French colleagues this was served with chilled/frozen Vodka.
This tasting was with the three selected sherries & a Crémant with the traditional thin sliced salmon and the accoutrements. Manzanilla to me is slightly salty than Fino and both are always served cold – not room temperature. The match was good. The Sherry taste enhanced the smoked salmon. There was finely chopped white onions, Egg whites and egg yolks – finely chopped, capers and yellow lemon slices. The Alsatian crémant offering was savory as well and the sparkling wine fit well . It was Lucci in NYC – my advertising agency colleague that started me with dry Sherry. When I went to tapas in Madrid, it was the practice to offer the plates with a Fino or a Manzanilla. In England I was presented an opportunity of having Amontillado and Oloroso with much more body and not dry at all. I learned to appreciate Spanish gout and the English gout of sherry. I know on the white fish side My favorite fish meal was a Dover Sole – grilled off the bone that was served with a Meursault. So, I think I will have to have a Chardonnay tasting find a match with white fish.
Tuna steak.
I first had a blackened Tuna steak in Hawaii and followed up in California. To me it was accompanied by spinach, olive oil and garlic. So, we made that and matched it to Carmenère, Chardonnay, and a Beaujolais. Tuna is a favorite and I still cannot decide which wine I like best. Originally, I matched it up to a CA Merlot and it was perfect. As I have commented before it depends on the tannin you like.CA Merlots have become so expensive and they are in the middle of the range of red wines. Red meats more tannin, red fish meat explore more with Pinot Noir. The Beaujolais with Gamay accomplished that. I am tempted to try a dark rosé. This tasting went well with Beaujolais.
Pork Tenderloin.
A slow roasted pork tenderloin basted with garlic and olive oil with asparagus and artichoke hearts stuffed with Italian spiced breadcrumbs. This dish was matched to Gruner Veltliner (Austria), Albariño (Spain), Brut Blanc de Blanc Crémant (Alsace, France) and a red wine: Beaujolais. Some of the best pork dishes I have had are in Spain, China, and Singapore. Wine does not go will with Soy Sauce or with peanuts (the Brits call it ground nuts) so avoid this match.
Wines tasted.
Willm Brut Blanc de Blanc Crémant d’Alsace - France
Malbec – Jose Hernandez Uco Valley Argentina
Kirkland Malbec Mendoza, Argentina Broquel Winery
Anciano Gran Reserva Valdepeñas 2008 Tempranillo Bodegas Navalon Spain.
Scott Kelley Pinot Noir Oregon 2019
Forstreiter – Gunner Veltliner 2018 Austria
Albariño – Valminor – Spain
Chardonnay – 2019 – Bogle
Rosé – South Australia Cellar Works
Beaujolais Village – Moulin a vent Lacarelle 2018 France
Carmenère - Carmen Viña Mai, Chile
My Covid lock-up had me thinking of where I go next with wine. As mentioned, before I need to explore wines from New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, Germany, Italy, and Portugal. I want to match them with food as 2020 & 2021 wine lists are saying that these wines are taking a lead and competing with the old guard.
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[1] Ron Alonzo is a Chevalier of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin ; A Professionnel de la Table of the Chaine des Rôtisseurs ; and a CFSP level I of the NAFEM (Certified Food Service Professional - ) www.junto.blogspot.com
Quotations from a Burgundian vigneron: “On croit avaler le bon Dieu en culottes de velours.”
- “One seems to have swallowed the good Lord himself wearing velvet pants.” (P. Morten Shand)
[2] P.77 A Wine Tour of France - Frederick S. Wildman Jr Morrow Publishing
[3] P, 84 A wine tour of France. Fredrick S. Wildman, Jr. Morrow publishing.
[4]
The Goode Guide to Wine – a manifesto of sorts by Jamie Goode 2020. University of California Press
5 The Fireside Book of Wine edited by Alexis Bespaloff – An anthology for wine drinkers.
[7] A Wine Tour of France by Fredrick S. Wildman, Jr. – A convivial Wine Guide & Travel Guide to French Vintages & Vineyards. (1967 - 1977) William Morrow and Company
[8] Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book 2020 – Mitchel Beazley- Octopus Publishing, London UK
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