FLY ON THE WALL

Notes & thoughts on food and wine
 from Ron Alonzo aka Don Merlot¹….

As we are locked in due to the Corona virus (COVID 19) – I thought how I would jump in to 2020 wine world and get myself up to speed with where the wine world is. I looked at my pile of wine magazines and food & wine books/notes were to see how I want to go forward. The December edition of “Wine Spectator” reviewed the “2019 top 100”² wines (of the world) 2019 and included the top 10 wines of the previous decade - good examination of finding out where wines of the 50 years have appreciated. I have a current perspective that I own now, so what is the world appreciation? I accept that it is different than other amateur or professional oenologists. I recognize that other perspectives have their truths also, and I respect that as well. My sense is that I have been absorbed into a “renaissance” of wine following the second world War and the rebuilding of Europe and Asia and the industrial/economic world in the twentieth Century. My wine template grew as I went as I traveled from market to market tasting and dining with each customer’s and studied their local culture. Soon I found wine magazines; became global and wine interests became global and over the 50 years and patterns evolved; basic concords & agreements were accorded. To me the fundamentals & rituals of wine culture that were just more than the local daily wine consumption or national consumption: it became the special wines for special occasions and I learned from the classic French wines that were the most rewarding as I traveled from France & Britain and to other parts of the globe; so I became familiar with Bordeaux’s (Red) Red & Whites (Burgundies, Loire’s). Eventually in the USA California wines came up to vita vinifera expectations and as I traveled European Wines excelled as did other wines from major vineyards from around the world. Of course, on a personal note I was limited because I had to be careful because I had expense account spending limits for personal and business expenses, so these were kept to the personal and company guidelines. Sure, a customer would occasionally pull a bottle out of his cellar and or order a special bottle out of the restaurant cellar for me that I could never expense and shared it with me; I remember one time being with the big boss when I was at my first company when he was with his old customer who invited out for dinner in London that ordered a wine, -- it was a Ch. Lafite-Rothschild (premiere wine in the world). I almost fell out of my chair. What a treat an unexpected pleasure for me. On the same trip a few days later we were in Lausanne, Switzerland doing business with our European representative who hosted us and he ordered a Rhone wine -- a Hermitage which was to me a phenomenal red, (also a Premier French wine); a first for me It went with a roast beef dinner – magnificent meal, an exceptional meal. On other trips I had similar experiences in Spain and Italy when customers who were proud of their wines would dig deep in the restaurant cellars or their cellars and pull their favorite red wines. (In Spain I had Riojas/Tempranillos. In Italy, the Barolo/Nebbiolo which at one time was considered the king of the Red Italian wines.) World Wine rankings not popular at this point for the cognoscenti, but the customers were knowledgeable of their country’s wine and knew of my bent-on learning about wine, so they gave me a taste of what was available at that time where we ate. So, my taste buds were opened to the local classics, but that was then times past and move on so now let us get on with the present.

In the past decade (2009 – 2018) what have the best top wines been? and is there a link to the classic past or is it part of the renaissance and global proliferation? I found in the ranking: Classic France – Burgundy –; Bordeaux – Some; Rhone – quite a few; Italy – yes, Spain – yes; California – yes; Washington – some, Oregon -some; Portugal – Some; Argentina – some; Australia – some; New Zealand – some; Chile – some; South Africa – some: mostly Reds, Whites, Rosé, Sparkling. An evolution as taken place.





What strikes me about the 2019 top 100 is that there are some top Bordeaux’s who have remained in the top of the rankings: Chateau Leoville Barton, Chateau Pichon Baron, & Chateau Pichon Longueville Lalande, Chateau Branaire-Ducru, Domaine De Chevalier and a couple of Burgundies too: Domaine Faively Nuits St. Georges 2016 & Marquis d’Angerville Volnay Champons 2016 from the Cote d’Or and one from Beaujolais and a couple of Rhone’s that are in the top 100. California has a strong growing representation. What is now represented is the new world: Australia and New Zealand, South Africa and in South America – Argentina & Chile. The editors broke out the Market/vineyards: France 23, Italy 21, California 22, Oregon 5, Spain 7, Australia 5, Washington 2, Chile 3, Portugal 3, Germany 2, Austria 2, Israel 1, New Zealand 1, South Africa 1, Argentina 1


There is a dramatic inclusion of original French grapes that have migrated to other wine markets like Malbec, Carmenère, and Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz (Syrah), and Italian grapes and Spanish & Portuguese grapes have migrated as well. On the white grape the Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris have migrated as well.³ Old vines have reemerged: Carigignan – Granatxa. New vineyards have emerged Bierzo in Spain that have made into the top 100.

My personal observation and comparing notes with colleagues are that no one market controls the wine direction anymore; one cannot say it is France anymore. I am not trying to make a statistical analysis but certainly A quick shift over to more white wines shows a similar movement away from classical matching to new trends with markets as the foods and recipes become available. Chardonnays that are adaptable to most vineyards are still popular, but they have been followed by Sauvignon Blanc, where they have had successes in many new world markets. The Riesling from Germany is now drier and in other wine markets the consumers also are looking for drier Rieslings. As the demand for fish over beef increases the demand for white wine on the menu, so the palate is driving the wine selection. Not to be forgotten Rosé, a Port, Champagne, and sparkling wines are still in the top 100 list.

This list of top wines is not run by press releases but by top tasting tasters /sommeliers who are measuring the wine regardless of the reputation or the history of the wine; the tasting is done and completed independently of past results, and the top 100 wines are graded, compiled and released. It was the list of 2019 that I perused and want to go to the wine store and look and see what I can find but alas cannot go because I am locked in. Great efforts have been made to judge the top wines. I cannot wait to go out and shop.



< It reminds me of the old story of the past – a man had an audience with the Pope and as he was presented, he said


“– Your holiness, my group is prepared to pay the church one billion dollars a year to have you change the Lords Prayer to “Give us day our Daily Bread (and add) and beer…” The Pope became visibly upset and demanded the Swiss guards remove him from the room and as he is being moved, the man said wait, we will make it two billion dollars a year! And as he comes to the entrance to the hall and shouts – “last offer! – Three billion dollars a year!!!” As the doors close you hear him shout – “tell me how much the bread people are paying you?”>

The great wines are still sold at premium prices every year as futures Burgundies and Bordeaux’s and are sold for 4- and 5-digit figures per bottle. In recent years as Chinese and Japanese economies westernized / boomed, and incomes of the aristocrats joined the world ranks, premium wine prices per bottle and availability became high income value issues.


Not that the wine world was divided but the expansion of wine and food became a growth based on wines vineyard expansion. Outside of Europe, The United States focused on California, Oregon, and Washington and developed premium wines; In South America Argentina, Chile and Uruguay developed award wining white and red wines on European grapes; In South Africa there are European grapes that yield premium wines. In Asia Pacific (Oceania) Australia and New Zealand developed award wining wines as well. Each European country matched its food with wines and each new world market matched it food with its wines and the global culinary system evolved. Cultural perspectives became important and food development & history are important in the new world frontier as borders are opened and no restrictions are being applied.

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Food, Wine, and Travel are linked in the last two decades with many chefs developing menus and offering perspectives matches on food and wines. The real question is not what you like but what you know about food and wine? What goes with what? More likely than not in most major cities a supermarket with a wine department will have a wine salesperson that knows his stock and knows what the match of wine will go with what food if the customer wants guidance. Here in New Orleans I am comfortable that I can go to a good supermarket and make a comfortable match with what is in stock or if I go to a premium restaurant the wait staff will have knowledge, I can match my menu selection to the wine list or if there is a sommelier tell him your budget and focus on a wine. But for a quick review let us see what I picked up on the top 100 selection – more or less.

When I can go out, I will have to see what food I can eat and what wine is affordable and match it. Food and matching it with wine are important for the right pleasure. That is the key today – the harmony of taste wine and food – compatibility. Much has been written about matching wine with food and there are some suggestions from Chefs and culinary schools of does and don’ts. ⁴

I think I will buy to have around to taste with foods – other than just a glass or White wine or Red wine:

é dry (from Rioja with food)

My local menu is New Orleans and I found on the list the following to try and at a reasonable price.

Shrimp remoulade – Sauvignon Blanc Quivira CA– Ranked- 31- $24



Flank steak – Petra-Toscana Zingari 2017 Italy – Ranked- 29- $15

Well Mes Amis du Vin. Bon Chance. Bon Sante.

1 Ron Alonzo is a Chevalier of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin ; A Professionnel de la Table of the Chaine des Rôtisseurs ; and a CFSP level I of the NAFEM (Certified Food Service Professional)

2^ Wine Spectator DEC 31, 2019 -Jan 15, 2020- 2019 TOP 100 pp 44- 84 – Shanken Communications Inc.

3 Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book 2020 - Hachette company – Octopus Publishing group Ltd. Pp 17 – 39.

4 Food and Wine, Fiona Beckett – Mitchell Beazley wine made easy- How to match food with wine. 2002.Octopus Publishing Limited London.

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